
Recently, Nestle India CMD Suresh Narayanan was in the hot seat as he fielded questions on the sugar controversy triggered by a recent report released by Swiss investigative organisation Public Eye. Narayanan vehemently dismissed accusations made by the Swiss NGO about Nestle having “double standards” for developed and developing markets. The report alleged that Nestle’s baby food products sold in low and middle-income countries including India contain “high levels of added sugar”, while such products are sugar-free in developed markets.
The report’s claims about the increased sugar levels in Cerelac sold in India has prompted the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) to kickstart an industry-wide testing of infant food products across brands.
Nestle is no stranger to controversies. The Swiss multinational, which is the largest publicly held food company in the world, has battled critics over its marketing practices, labour handling and product safety over the years. Its baby food and infant formula — in which it is the leading player, with a fifth of the world’s market share — has repeatedly come under the scanner of multiple agencies worldwide. The question is, will this current crisis impact sales?
The controversy comes at a time when consumer activism about healthier food products and claims are gaining ground amidst growing calls for more stringent regulations and enforcement.
Experts say that it’s now for the FSSAI to complete testing to verify the declarations made by the company. They also added that this sugar controversy is unlikely to have long-term ramifications for the company.
Ankur Bisen, Senior Partner and Head-Consumer, Food and Retail, Technopak, says, “It’s not as if this has come as a shock to Nestle. The sugar controversy is not specific to India.
There has been a lot of activism around sugar globally which packaged food companies have been facing for the past few years. It is Nestle’s stated goal that it is working on reducing sugar levels and focusing on adding healthier products to their portfolio. In that context, Nestle has systems and an apparatus in place to address this issue.”
On the other hand, Bisen believes the sugar controversy puts the spotlight on the incapacity of India’s food regulatory framework to deal with such issues more proactively and the need to put in place more stringent norms.
“Nestle India dominates the infant food segment. The alternative is home recipes, but the reason consumers seek baby food products is for convenience and brand trust. Also, this category cannot be advertised as per law. In a category that can be advertised, it’s far easier for new brands to emerge with a differentiated proposition,” he adds.
The company said that it has not seen any significant impact on sales of the Cerelac portfolio.
Nestle India had faced a far more daunting challenge in 2015 with the Maggi crisis. Cut to 2024, India has emerged as the largest market worldwide for brand Maggi.
India is after all a priority market for the Swiss packaged food major where it is executing an accelerated investment plan. Irrespective of the recent controversy, the company seems to be going full steam ahead with new bets, announced just last week, with a strong focus on tapping into the growing demand for premium products.
Nestle India is set to launch Nespresso’s premium range of coffees and machines by the end of this year. It will also be launching Nespresso boutiques with the first one slated to open in New Delhi. “The maturity of Indian consumers to appreciate premium coffee products has grown significantly in recent times. So the market is now ready for a product like Nespresso,” said Bisen.
At the same time, Nestle has inked a definitive agreement to set up a joint-venture with Dr. Reddy’s Laboratories by Q2FY25 to scale up its health science nutraceuticals business.